Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Relative Beauty

The famous expression says "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder". And while there is undoubtedly a subjective factor in the perception of beauty, it is much more socially and culturally defined than many believe. Different societies, throughout the world, and throughout history, have held many different views of the "ideal" female form, and this ideal is generally defined by the dominant social class, and almost always by men.

Why the focus on only female beauty? Throughout the vast majority of history, women have had few or no rights. They usually did not have the ability to make choices, whether about a mate, their own bodies, their profession or anything else. It was generally men who made the decisions, either as fathers or husbands, and it is they who determined (for themselves) the value of women. Art and literature were primarily made by and for men. While male beauty was certainly recognized (see many ancient Greek statues, for example, or the work of Michelangelo), this was primarily independent of gender relations.

Consider the view of beauty in Europe from the Renaissance through the Victorian era. This was a period dominated primarily by Monarchy and Aristocracy. As we can see in many paintings of the time, women were often portrayed as voluptuous and pale. This was considered the ideal for several reasons. Status and wealth meant that a woman could be well fed, as opposed to the many struggling poor. A pale complexion indicated that one didn't have to work outdoors, and be exposed to the sun. Within the social and economic setting of the times, these attributes represented the archetype of high standing, and thus were viewed as beautiful.

During the Victorian period, this view can be seen reflected in the consumer products of the time. Many fatty products were marketed to women as being able to make them plump and (therefore) more attractive. This view of beauty was still evident in the pin-ups of the early twentieth century, where the women portrayed were somewhat larger and rounder than those usually portrayed today. Around the middle of the century, however, this began to change.

From the fifties forward, portrayals of women in art and photography began to move towards a slimmer figure and skin that was more tanned. This corresponds to changing social conditions. The aristocracy was no more, and there was a growing middle class in Europe and especially the US. Air travel also started to become more common. Slimness became more highly valued as it represented activeness and health. Those with means were able to travel widely and have vacations in tropical areas, so tanned skin started to be associated with wealth and privilege.

Other cultures show similar correlations. In some African tribes, for example, the ability to have many offspring is highly valued, since it allows for a larger family and helps to grow the tribe. In such cultures, women with larger waists are considered to be more likely to give birth easily, and with less complications. Correspondingly, women with this attribute are usually considered the most attractive within such a culture. Local art forms do not generally portray women as thin with slight figures.

Most societies have historically been patriarchal, that is dominated by men. In many cases, this means that women have often been valued as status symbols or even as property. In this context, younger women are more highly valued, and there is a long record of men (often much older) paying a "bride price" to acquire such women or girls. Younger women also have the ability to produce children for a longer period of time. It is unsurprising, then, that in such societies, a young, healthy woman represents the ideal of beauty.

In some of the few matriarchal societies that have existed throughout history, however, women have often been viewed much differently. Older women are sometimes considered "wise women" and make many of the tribal decisions. They have more status, wealth, and power than younger women. Unsurprisingly then, older women are often considered more attractive in such cultures and are more desirable as mates. This is similar to why successful, wealthy, older men, are frequently considered more attractive in some modern societies.

We all live in a specific society with a specific culture, and we often consider our values and beliefs to be universal and eternal. But with only a little exploration, it becomes clear that views about female beauty, as well as many other things, are largely relative. In the case of some beliefs, such as slavery, or female emancipation, we can well and properly argue that while different societies have different values, some of those values are better than others. I am not making an argument for cultural relativity.

In the case of aesthetics, though, I do not believe any such arguments can be made. There is no reason why one view of beauty is any better than another. Indeed, the entire concept of an "ideal" of female beauty is essentially sexist and patriarchal. If our view of beauty has been defined throughout history by social, cultural, and economic factors, and, of course, by men, then a progressive position would be to reject such definitions, including our own, as having any innate value. Only in this way can we look forward to a day where beauty truly is in the eye, or the mind, of the beholder.


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